Day 2 - Marken to Warder

It's been nearly 50 years since Johan has lived in Holland for any length of time. Still, he's a Dutchman at heart. So the first must-do before starting out on our second day of riding is stop at the local bakery for a gevulde koeken -- well actually three -- Holland's supremely lekker almond cookies.

We head back south to hook up with the dike (dijk) that connects what used to be the island of Marken to the mainland. The small community has a distinct culture and dress, which we learn about at the local museum. There's also a terrific bike trail traversing the top of the dike that encircles the island, with a quaint lighthouse still attended by a resident caretaker. A flock of ducks find a safe haven in this quiet nook of the Markemeer.

The town has an authentic antiquated feel, and the harbor hosts a number of cafes and tourist traps. We enjoy the view but not the sand-colored coffees -- the weakest brew I think I've ever had. A band of fearless birds parade around our table waiting for the crumbs to fall.

We just make the 1pm sailing to Volendam, where the tourist industry has gained a firm hold. The harbor is buzzing with visitors, so we head down the beach to find a quiet spot for a picnic lunch. Giant steel grey clouds dominate the western sky so I don my rain gear. It never hurts to be proactive, even if you look like a giant pillow man.

The rain starts as we cycle towards the Volendam museum and we're glad to take refuge inside. The museum has excellent exhibits on the seafaring history of the city, and life-like displays of dress and housing from the 16th to the 18th centuries. It's real claim to fame however is the mosaic room, wall panels made from 1.5 million cigar bands collected by a pair of Volendam brothers in the 20th C. A novel work of art!

The rain clouds have passed so we cycle on towards Edam, home of the famous Dutch cheese. The panniers are getting stuffed, but we manage to find space for a small round.

Edam is a lovely small town with canals lacing through the tree-lined cobblestone streets.

It'd be nice to stay longer but the afternoon's wearing on so we make our way to our next overnight stop in Warder. Our hosts greet us with raised eyebrows: they were expecting us tomorrow! But unlike Mevrouw Outs, Ans and Andre are easy-going and happy to roll with the punches. Since no one else is booked in for the night, they welcome us in.